Geometry of deep and intermediate water breaking waves influenced by wind speed and direction

Wind effects on the evolution of a breaking wave group due to dispersive focusing are investigated using two-phase flow Navier–Stokes solver. The equations solved for both air and water, with air–water interface captured by Volume Fluid method turbulence Smagorinsky subgrid-scale stress model. model is first validated experimental measurements without following wind action. delays shifts location downstream, vice versa opposing wind. wind-induced drift current mainly responsible these time location. shift approximately linearly proportional speed (wind induced current) under weak winds, but saturates strong winds. direct forcing, other hand, plays an increasingly larger role in process presence stronger It was found that forcing enhances initiation breaking, while may change type or suppress large intensity, such as plunging breaking. Accordingly, shape at onset altered considerably increases maximum height skewness slightly. However, also increase initially because upwave refocusing group. Eventually, decreases skewness.